Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Bangers and Mâche


This post should be read in the voice of Mme Delia Smith speaking French. It will help if you imagine the Reine de la cuisine d'Angleterre in a French maid's uniform, holding a riding crop.
You will be fluent in kitchen French by the end of the article, c'est promis.

Here at SDSC we learned today that our charcutier, Jean-Luc, is retiring.

The news came via the yelling yellow monthly municipal feuille de chou, called Le Trait d'Union.

Just in case you think that we make all of this stuff up at SDSC, here's a bit of the front page. It announces silver long-service gongs for municipal employees Didier, Nano, Philippe and Marie-Thérèse.

People come from far and wide to buy boudins blanc from Jean-Luc. The boudins are a winter speciality, and are particularly délicieux when gently grilled over a bed of braises. As Delia would tell you, the embers should be just hot enough to brown the skins without causing une explosion. See how many ingredients you can spot in this recipe extract:

Les ingrédients du boudin blanc: Le boudin blanc, préparation cuite de charcuterie fine, se présente sous forme d'une pâte très claire à base de viande blanche, maigre de porc, volaille ou veau et d'une enveloppe de menu de porc.
On y ajoute des matières grasses, en général du gras de porc, parfois de la crème, des oeufs ou du lait, par exemple.
On l'aromatise avec oignons, carottes, échalotes, bouquet garni à base de thym, laurier, persil, clous de girofle, parfois même de vanille, fleur d'oranger ou cannelle.
Try them with bilingual pommes Golden Delicious au four, et un bouquet de mâche. Une vinaigrette à l' huile d'olive vierge extra, et au vinaigre de framboise will go down well, too.

Here at Saisons de Sainte-Cécile we wish Jean-Luc and Marie-Luce bonne et heureuse retraite. We hope that they have passed the secret boudin recipe on to Cyril, their apprentis charcutier and successeur. [Nice one, Cyril. Just for les lecteurs anglais. Ed]

Lexique;
Deux légumes aujourd'hui. L'un au sens propre et l'autre au sens figuré...
Feuille de chou: En langage familier, il s'agit d'un petit journal ou brochure local.
Attention, la mâche, ce n'est pas ça:












C'est ça:










En février et mars, ça pousse dans les prairies. Les Anglais l'appellent "Lambs' Lettuce", et on peut en acheter chez Sainsbury, chez Tesco et même chez Aldi ou Lidl de temps en temps. Vous en avez probablement dans votre jardin, aussi.


Voilà. Vous parlez bien le français culinaire désormais. Bon appétit les amis de SDSC et à bientôt!
AB



Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Pinson et Four à Pain


There's always a day, some time in February in this part of western France, when the chaffinch turns our thoughts to spring.
photo courtesy flickr
Today, in the hushed queue for mid-morning bread at our village's make-do boulangerie counter inside the supérette, I shook hands with the cantonnier.
He confided with a wink that the sap would soon be rising, especially in the hedgerows, so he needed to hurry along with the Renault-orange municipal tractor and hedge-flailer.

We used to have a real boulangerie, with chilled vitrines, vertical stacks of still-crackling baguettes, and the smell of warm croissants at 7a.m. when, for a baker's dozen years we drove our kids to their pre-sunrise winter rendez-vous the school bus.
But a spat two years ago between the ancient, absent, money-grabbing landlady owner and the young, dynamic, financially-challenged tenant boulanger put paid to that. Allegedly. There were, according to several reliable gossips, "frank and heated exchanges about who should pay for maintenance of the wood-fired four à pain bread oven: propriétaire ou locataire?".

The resulting dialogue des sourds (no épées used, just lots of shouting: sourd = deaf . Ed) led to the appearance in the old boulangerie window one October morning of an acrimoniously scrawled note, spitting an infinitive in two grammatically incorrect syllables from the back of a paper cake-plate:

"Fermer"

Confused infinitives and imperatives notwithstanding, the prospect of a breadless French village occasioned an outbreak of apoplexie at all levels. There was much shrugging, and even more shouting, in caves throughout the commune, as citizens conspired to find someone to blame...Preferably some municipal office-holder or other. Preferably the Maire.

This morning, in the bread queue, retentive chatter seemed to indicate that the emergency was over. And it had only taken a year and a half. The Maire would at last be able to sleep a little more easily.
As I walked out of the supérette, baguette in hand, the Pinson sang his line of springtime.
The flourish at the end of the song seemed to say:

"Look over there"...

(Strewth. A bilingual French chaffinch. Call the BBC. Ed)

Next to where the café used to be, a builders' Citroën Jumper van was parked. The occupants were unloading a pallet. The sign on the package proclaimed;

"Four à Pain".
Lexique;
Cantonnier: Il travaille pour la Mairie.
Supérette: Un supermarché en plus petit.
Cave: Là où on stocke le vin. En Vendée les hommes ont leur rendez-vous dans la cave.
Vitrine: Présentoir réfrigéré contenant éclairs, gâteaux au chocolat...
Pinson: Oiseau qui chante en anglais et en français. Comme Sandie Shaw.